Friday, August 31, 2012

New Grandson

New grandson born at 4:05 pm.
Name: Titus Richard Wilkin
Weight:7lbs 13oz


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Location:Germany

Wine tour

Denise and I had a wine tour while we were in Cortona. We only went to two of the local wineries but had a great time and learned a lot about the wines. Alberto Martini was our personal guide. He was very engaging and he is a sommelier. He is a native of the area and used to work for a large tour company. Two years ago he struck out on his own.
The first winery was a small one that is totally organic. They do not use any chemicals, add no sulfites, and use no technologically advanced equipment. The grapes are all hand picked and processed and the grapes are pressed with the old fashioned "foot" method. We were so engrossed with the owner and his explanations, etc I forgot to take any pictures. You can see him online. His name is Stephano Amerighi and he is the classic young Italian. His passion is contagious and engrossing. He keeps a total control and hands-on Approach to management. He is a small vineyard and after 5 years is up to 12000 bottles for the year. He only produces Syrah and has already won awards in France and Italy.
He took us into the cellar and pop corks from a variety of barrels, used a long glass tube to "suck" samples from them and give us tastes in our glasses. He and the whole operation were fascinating.
The pictures are from the second winery. It is Vignonesi Vineyards and they produce 700000 bottles per year. A medium sized winery for here we were told. The cellars were impressive with over 1200 of the small maturing Harrell's as well as the huge barrels. They make a Vin Santo vintage each year which is not sold until it completes a12 year processing and maturation cycle. A 375 ml (half regular wine bottle size) bottle costs $250.
We had lunch at their gourmet ristorante as part of the tour and they gave us samplings of three of their top wines during lunch. Their wine was very good. When I discussed the best wines with the owner of one of the established Enotecas with a good reputation in Cortona he included their wine in his recommended best list.
All in all the wine tour personalized by Alberto for just the two of us was a great experience.




- if your only going to make one barrell of wine ... :)
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The area where the small barrels of Vin Santo mature.



Now here is some serious quantities of vino.



Here I am with our guide Alberto Martini. He has traveled extensively to increase his knowledge of wines.




Denise and I at the Vignonesi Winery near Cortona.

Location:Cortona

Thoughtful

The picture says it all. This sign shows that they are sensitive to the needs of lots of young couples. Sara took full advantage.




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Location:Baumholder Army Post

There is up and there's down

Well, we are back in Germany. Zeb and Coral went to the hospital with Sara. We may have a new grandbaby by days end. Denise and I are babysitting the younger ones. I thought I might go back and catch up on some of the trip in the blog. The Internet service in Italy left a lot to be desired. There were good connections at some cafes but while you are out and about you don't want to stop and take time to blog.
One of the things I liked about the hill towns was the narrow streets and walkways. You might find one around any bend or in the middle of a block. Usually I had to take off on them and see where they went. Some go on through to other streets and some go to residences and dead ends. I think I will put together a group of photos when we get home about them. Here are a few in Cortona:








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Notice that these byways, as with most of the streets, go up or down, and often are pretty steep. It is easy to see why most Italians living in these towns have strong legs. Lots of "old" people (older than us) walk around and don't seem to notice the steepness. We have also seen lots of "old" folks riding bikes everywhere. They are obviously used to it and in good shape. I don't recall seeing overweight oldsters. There are some middle aged folks (mostly men) who seemed to have indulged a little too much. Italians are used to doing lots of walking. Maybe this is true partly because it is not convenient to drive and/or park in lots of places. Their attitude seems to be not to drive or ride anywhere it is possible to walk. A healthy choice.

Location:Cortona,Itay

Sunday, August 26, 2012

Learning curve in Europa

Each time I do something I have never done before, there is the learning that is sometimes painful, sometimes funny, and sometimes just, just, well you understand. Today I share a list of Dick and my combined learnings, our Europa learning curve. (those of you who have traveled quite a bit will just smile knowingly and mentally add your own to ours).
Our Top 20 so Far:

1. Know the road signs, don't wait and ask yourself if that meant do not enter or one way after you have turned onto it. ( There are no English subtitles here.)

2. The mattresses are not the fluffy type, they are hard or what we would consider extra, extra firm.

3. German pillows are fluffy, feather, and huge. Italian pillows are hard and solid.

4. The old electric receptacles are too small for the new Apple devises, but the new ones will fit. Some of the older buildings or homes do not have the newer ones and you must use some interesting combinations to make it work. They may require multiple combination of adapters.

5. You must put a coin or token into the lock on a grocery cart to release it for use. When you return the cart you get a coin or token back. They are all locked to one another.

6. Don't expect anything but towels and toilet paper to be provided at rentals unless in a hotel. It's a good thing I brought some soap with me. The first two rentals didn't have dish washing soap, bathroom soap, or some basic supplies.

7. Take the autostrade even though most are toll roads, it costs but is so much more convenient and nice. Also keep cash for this.

8. Air conditioning is rare, don't expect it in public or private places. Hotels that cater to Americans will sometimes have it.

9. In rentals, they provide a washing machine if listed, never a dryer. They give you drying racks and at a 100 degrees clothes dry very quickly.

10. Take your own wash cloth, they just seem to be non existent.

11. The kitchens all had a good supply of kitchenware to use, and were fairly modern.

12. Be prepared to walk and hike uphill and climb stairs/steps. Most rentals are upstairs, most bathrooms are downstairs, and everywhere seemed to have uphill climbs. Great way to work off that great dinner!

13. When you see the price of an item, the tax is already included for food and gifts. Many of our rentals were cash only, so always carry cash. ATM's are everywhere.

14. Stop and ask for directions, don't try to look for street signs. Most Italians are very friendly and helpful whether they speak English or not.

15. Your IPad Maps GPS system will work while traveling even though not on the Internet as long as you have loaded directions or destination before leaving. Keep your eye on the moving blue dot......

16. Follow major highway signs for the city or destination, do not rely on GPS directions. Roads in Italy have multiple numbers and are not well marked, except on the autostrade.

17. Tipping is not expected and if you do tip, it is much less. They pay their help more than we do for the service industry.

18. Most cities or towns with tourists will have a caffe with free WIFI that is reliable with a strong signal. The Internet is not common yet, so don't expect it to be available even when listed at rentals.

19. A pay as you go phone for about $20 can be very helpful for reservations, etc. Internet cannot be relied on for everything. Just don't expect to understand the messages sent by their phone companies, no comprende!

20. Always keep a 30 or 50 cent euro coin in your pocket for the bathrooms in Germany and Switzerland. It costs but the good news is it is also very clean. You pay a lady to go in and she keeps it quite clean. In Italy, most caffes have restrooms and don't mind if you use them even without a cappachino.

Did you make it all the way to number 20? Wish I could hear your list.
Sending a hello to all, we made it to Basel today, Germany tomorrow. We still have some blogs to do that we couldn't do while in Cortona. The Internet was pretty non existent at our rental.

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Location:Basel, Switzerland

Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Cooking (cont'd)




Denise stuffing a tomato with risotto rice and a mixture of herbs and spices.



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We learned the various meats used in the Tuscan antipasti plates. All of the meats were made or cut in the local butcher shop.


All together we made 10 dishes. We ate lunch and dinner complete with dessert, wines, etc. It was a great day. Met at the cafe at 9 a.m. And the teacher brought us back home at 8 p.m. The teacher spent most of her life in California so language was not an issue. That was one of the big reasons we decided on her. She was very informative and friendly/chatty all day. She took whatever time we needed and didn't rush anything. She has lived in Cortona the last several years. Lots of new dishes for our menu and some great tips and techniques.

Location:Cortona

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Cooking in Italy

Yesterday we did something that we had been looking forward to since we got to Italy - we took a cooking class. It was great fun, very informative and delicious.



We first met at a cafe and discussed what Denise and I were interested in cooking. The class was just Denise and I so the whole day was customized for us. Then - as pictured here, we went to the local markets to get all the supplies we would need.
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For our main dishes, I wanted to learn to make ravioli from scratch. So our teacher had me make ravioli and Denise make tagliatelle. We made the pasta from scratch, then I made the filling (ricotta and fresh chard) for the ravioli and Denise made a sauce for the noodles.






We made tiramisu for our dessert (dolce). We had eaten so much by the end of the day, we took it home along with some other left-overs.
Denise made a risotto which was great and I made an eggplant dish.



This is Osso Buco searing to get ready for a long slow cook. It is a cut of beef shank that is popular here.



Here is the Osso Buco covered with the soffitto of carrots, celery, onions, and garlic chopped up fine and added with some red wine for the cooking. It cooked for 4 or 5 hours.
I'll post and then continue.
Ciao

Location:Cortona, Italy

Monday, August 20, 2012

Dinner and Jazz in the Piazza

Buongiorno to family and friends!
We are all settled in our little casa in Cortona and resting during the heat of the day. This casa is right outside the wall and a 5 minute walk into the main piazza with the shops, ristorantes, and little grocery stores carrying fresh





produce. More on this beautiful city later.


As we said goodbye to Monterchi on Friday evening, we were treated to a night of jazz in their small piazza where we ate lunch most days. We arrived early being warned by the caffe owners that if we wanted a place to sit or wanted dinner, we should come early. They filled the piazza with chairs and after dinner, many people began to arrive, mostly locals. All ages, children, young and old and a few dogs brought by their owners.
A few pictures to show the ristorante and the musicians, although it was difficult to capture with the lights.
Ciao, for now. We have much to catch up and blog about.


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Location:Monterchi, Italy

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Food Lovers

Ah, to be without Internet, such a shock.

For all my foodie family and friends: this was an Antipasta Dish we ordered at this restaurant. They served 7 toppings and then brought us one more. We were served this dish with Italian Bread.
Toppings:
Chickpea spread
Cheese with hot pepper dipping sauce





Herring in olive oil
Scallions in olive oil
Eggplant spread
Cooked mild red peppers
Marscapone topped with licorice spread

Then they brought us out a large prune stuffed with an olive and wrapped with prosciutto. This was lightly cooked or fried on all sides and served warm.

Molto Bene!

Will post again next Saturday. Hugs to all!


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Location:Va' dElsa

No Internet


Haven't stopped blogging. BUT - Where we are this week there is NO Internet service. We are at a little cafe with WiFi in Sansepolcro. Toured the city with great art from 14 and 15 hundreds. Will catch you all up next week from Cortona.


Monterchi, around the corner from our rental.




Great place to eat. This is in city centre Monterchi.


View from our rental.

Location:Monterchi, Italy

Thursday, August 9, 2012

Vineyard and Agriturisimo




Small vineyard by most standards. Great quality of product. In order to be an Agriturisimo the establishment can only offer local products. 12 acres under production. White Vernacccia on the left and red Chianti grapes (Sangiovese) on the right. 500 olive trees.
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Part of our meal for tasting a red.



Tasted red, white, olive oil, and Grappa.



Fausto - Owner and tour guide.

Location:Sovestro in Poggio

Wine Tasting and Vineyard

Pasta, wine, olives, and antipasti

After an informative tour of a winery in which the owner, a young man of about 30, with light brown hair and slight build, taught us all about the white wine Vernace and the red Chianti aged in the vats and the ones aged in the oak barrels. He also instructed us on the difference in olive oil and why they are labeled extra virgin or only virgin. We learned about grappa, that it is made from the grape skins and is a dessert wine of a very high alcohol content. They serve you a very tiny glass of this with biscotti to dip in it.

Before we were served lunch they brought us all a small glass bowl of excellent tasting green olives, French Bread, and sparkling water. He introduced the white wine first and taught us how to look, smell and taste the wine. With the white wine we had penne pasta with bolognese sauce. Next, he taught us about chianti wines and how they are labeled. With this second wine taste, we were served two types of semi hard cheeses and a Parma style ham, salami, toasted bread with a greenish brown spread of anchovies, capers and chicken. They also served a small glass dish of honey that they recommended you dip your cheese in. With this they served Bruschetta and also later a thinly sliced toasted French bread that they had rubbed with garlic and salt and then drizzled with olive oil. The second wine was served during this course and was the wine that had been aged in the oak vats. The last course was a grappa wine, dessert wine of a golden flavor. It had a very good flavor and we dipped our biscotti in it and most seemed quite fine, but my head was quite dizzy since I am used to about one glass of wine at a time.

We sat next to a couple from France and another from Germany and had good conversation with all from politics, to vacation plans, and of course favorite wines.

Dick will post a couple of pics below.

Ciao


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Location:Sovestra in Poggia Agriturisimo, San Gimignano, Italy

Siena

Yesterday we drove to Siena. It is the city that this region of Italy is named after. It is one of the larger cities in the area besides Firenze (Florence). In the mid 1200s to 1300s there were about 60,000 people living there. It was a major banking and trade center. THEN, what we have found in several towns in this area, is that the Black Death (Bubonic Plaque) decimated the population. In the case of Siena, 1 in 3 died. After the plaque many of the area walled cities, like Siena, we're conquers by the city-state of Florence with help of Phillip IIs Spanish army. Today the population is back to about 60,000 or so. It has one of the largest Piazzas around, a huge famous Duomo and cathedral, etc. The history is incredible here. It is easy to picture what Etruscan life and medieval living was like. Many of the streets are auto free and pedestrians rule - but we see cars and trucks In some of the most unlikely places. Many of the narrow streets are only wide enough to accommodate one car or one small delivery fan and they often work there way through the crowds of people. The artistry, carving, sculptures, etc from the 1400-1500 is incredible. We arrived early to beat traffic and caught the piazza before people arrived. That is when the shops are preparing for the day and delivery and trash people are abundant.



The large Piazza Il Campo before the crowds. Notice the service vehicles.



Another shot later in the morning. Hundreds in the piazza.



The cathedral and duomo. You wouldn't believe the inside. Ornate items everywhere there is a place to have one. There were items by Donatello and one area of sculpture by Michelangelo. The vastness and number of things to see inside were pretty overwhelming.



Part of town taken from high above the cathedral on top of the museum next door. The small looking area in front of the clock tower is the large piazza.


Typical shop with wines, cheeses and hams.

Location:Siena, Italy

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

House in San Gimingnano

Pictures for Tris, Marilyn, and all those interested in the style of the house we are in. Some are just of funky lamps, the olive orchard, empty blown glass wine bottles, a huge armoire in the bedroom, a little bathroom window with its own wooden shade, the roof out our kitchen window, the thickness of the walls and various other pictures. If they won't all post on this blog, I will do another. I didn't do general room pictures this time.



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Location:Tuscany, Italy

Monday, August 6, 2012

More pics





Typical narrow curving street.
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One of fourteen surviving towers.


Part of the outside wall.

Location:San Gimignano